| Carpet
Out-Gassing Types of
Carpet & Pad Fastening Tackless Strip & Pad Cutting & Laying Carpet Stretching, Kicking & Tucking Carpet Carpet can be an affordable floor covering for any room in the house. An average quality carpet is now priced about the same as inexpensive vinyl, and considerably less than laminate and hardwood flooring. At one time,
carpet was a very popular flooring choice. Now, health concerns have discouraged many
people from installing carpet in their homes. Some carpets may harbor dust mites and mold
that even a good vacuuming may not prevent. Keeping those
considerations in mind, carpet can still be a good flooring choice. Of all the floor
coverings, carpet provides the most comfort and warmth -- especially if you enjoy roaming
the house barefoot. It can also help cut down on noise by absorbing sound. |
Carpet Out-Gassing
How much a carpet
out-gasses varies according to the blend of chemicals used at the mill. Two identical
types of carpet from the same manufacturer may out-gas different amounts. Carpet adhesives may also
out-gas. However, both carpets and adhesives that don't out-gas are available; you may
just need to shop around, compare, and do your own tests to find them. Consider doing a simple
test to see how out-gassing may effect you. Ask for a small piece cut directly off the
roll you want to buy. Seal it in a jar and set it in a sunny window sill for a day or two.
Open the jar and fan the
opening with your hand. If the odor is strong -- resembling paint thinner or something
worse -- or makes you feel ill, the potential for out-gassing may be a problem. That's why we always recommend letting any carpet out-gas in a detached garage or well-ventilated area for a day or two before installation. Types of Carpet & Pad
Nylon is most popular. It's
easy to clean, very strong, resists mildew, but may be pricy. Polyester and Olefin are
also durable, resist staining/mildew, but tend to pill and compact, respectively. Pile describes the
weave a carpet has. Loop, twist, shag, and plush all refer to the way the carpet fibers
are woven into the backing. A carpet's quality is
usually tied to pile thickness. Bend the carpet and see how much backing is exposed. The
tighter pile, the more durability and quality it will provide. There are also several grades of carpet padding. But one simple technique to judge padding is by pinching it. If the pad compacts more than half its thickness, the pad's probably not resilient enough to withstand much long-term wear and tear. Fastening Tackless Strip & Pad
Lay out the tackless strip
around the perimeter of the room with the points toward the wall or as indicated on the
strip. Cut pieces to fit around radiators or other permanent fixtures (exclude small items
like pipes and floor vents). Once the strips are in
place, hammer the fastening nails securely into the floor. Roll out and fit the pad along
the tackless strip edges, trimming any excess with a utility knife. Pick up all the scrap pieces of padding as you cut them so later they don't get trapped under the carpet. Staple down the pad with an electric stapler about every 8" so the pad isn't apt to shift or buckle/tear. Cutting & Laying Carpet
A 15' wide roll is
standard, but lengths vary. Calculate the best way to utilize edges without making a seam
or cut pieces so seams will lie in inconspicuous or low traffic areas. Consider too, which way the
pile will run. Stroke the carpet with your hand. The fibers will raise up or ruffle when
going against the pile. Make sure to keep all pieces going in the same direction. Roll out the proper length, adding a few inches of excess on each edge. Fold the piece and cut it from the back with a utility or carpet knife. Roll up the piece and transport it into the room.
Fold back the carpet to
expose the backing and trim the edges so an inch or so of excess remains on each wall. Cut out for obstructions like radiators or cabinets. Fasten seams and pieces together with strips of hot-melt glue heated with a carpet iron.
Stretching, Kicking & Tucking Carpet
Let's work on a basic
four-corner room. Starting in one corner, use a knee kicker to pull the carpet
toward the walls, hooking it onto the tackless strip. Trim off the excess,
leaving about 1/2" to 3/4" lip of extra carpet all along the walls. Tuck the lip
down between the tackless strip and the baseboard with a putty knife. Use a carpet stretcher
to tack in the adjoining corners, then go back to the first corner and work down the wall
with the knee kicker to each tacked corner. Finish up the corners with
the knee kicker if necessary. After completing those corners, use the carpet stretcher to
take up slack along the remaining walls, working toward the last corner. Again, use the knee kicker
if needed and trim off the excess at the edges. Finish up by tucking the lip down between
the tackless strip and baseboard. Nail down a threshold strip between any carpet and solid flooring transition. Also, keep a couple scrap pieces of carpet available to use as patches for any future repairs that might arise. |